• Car
  • 1967 Dodge Dart GT
• Engine
• 1973 440 HP block
• Approximately 9:1 compression
• Edelbrock Perfomer RPM heads
• Isky 292 Mega Cam 
• Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold
• 825 CFM Mighty Demon Annular Discharge carb (see warning in notes below)
• Accel 300+ ignition with Summit billet distributor & Taylor wires
• Schumacher Headers with homemade 3" X-pipe exhaust using Magnaflow stainless mufflers & turndowns 
• 15 gallon aluminum fuel cell
• Cooling
• Summit/Northern 28x19 aluminum radiator
• Jaguar fan clutch and 7 blade Mopar fan
• Shroud from Ford Aerostar (fits the Summit radiator fairly well)
• Two Summit G4910 10" electric fans mounted as pushers at the bottom of the radiator
• Transmission
  • 1966 727 TorqueFlite
    • Hughes 3000 stall 10" converter
    • Turbo Action manual valve body
    • B&M Pro Ratchet shifter 
    • Summit deep oil pan
    • Fenderwell mounted fan and plate type trans cooler
• Rear End
  • Mopar 8 3/4 with 3.55 Suregrip
• Brakes
  • Front: '86 5th Avenue discs
  • Rear: '73 B200 van 11" drums
  • Master cylinder: '86 5th Avenue
• Wheels/Tires
  • Rear: Stock 14"; Goodyear Integrity 215/75 14
  • Front: Weld Prostar 15x5"; BF Goodrich Traction T/A 205/70 15

Notes

• Carbs: My car had the issue of dropping off many RPMS -- to the point of almost dying -- when being put in gear. Some people solve this by drilling holes in the butterflies, or changing out internal carb parts (sorry I don't have details). I had no luck drilling the butterflies of a Holley Street Avenger. The Demon carbs are nice because they have Idle-Eze which allows you to give the engine more air at idle, which keeps it from dropping RPM and dying when in gear. If you do get a Demon carb, realize before you buy it that they are known for poor QC (in my case, terrible QC). They are most famous for metal shavings in carbs. While I didn't find any loose metal shavings, I did find unfinished holes which required drilling in the metering blocks, and more flashing/metal shards overhanging holes that had been drilled. Bad. The worst was that the jets installed in my carb were 68/76, when they should have been 80/88. This caused the carb to run like crap when throttled hard; otherwise it was on the idle circuit during cruising and was fine. Fixing the jets solved the problem and the car is now very fast, as it should be! All in all, I'll probably go with a tuneable Holley next time; I can't see myself sending more money to people that turn out such shoddy work.
• Cooling: I had a problem with heating up at idle, and when doing stop and go driving. Using a flex fan and a chrome universal shroud (which I dont think helped much), the car would get over 220 and climbing with stop and go. I used a short (Jaguar) clutch fan and a real shroud from a Ford Aerostar minivan, and this helped quite a bit, but the temps would get to about 212 and slowly creep up. Finally I added two SUM-G4910 fans to the lower front of my radiator, behind the bumper. I control these manually with switches on the dash, and together, the whole system allows me to keep the temps at about 200 -- or lower if I kept the fans on -- even in stop and go traffic.
• Engine building: When building your engine, keep a checklist and keep notes, to make sure you've done things. Don't lose sleep by wondering if you remembered to torque down the (insert hard to get at internal engine part here).